What gutter cleaning, joint and bracket repairs, new uPVC runs, downpipes and cast iron work typically cost in Leeds, what pushes the price up or down, and when to repair rather than replace.
Updated October 2026. These are starting prices, based on typical rates published by Leeds and northern roofers and national cost guides. Your price depends on access, the length and height of the gutters, their condition and the materials needed, so a job can cost more than the starting figure. After a free survey you get a fixed price in writing.
| Job | Starting price | Usually takes |
|---|---|---|
| Gutter clean (terrace or semi) | From £80 | 1–2 hours |
| Gutter repair (reseal a joint, refix or replace brackets) | From £90 | 1–2 hours |
| Replacing one run of uPVC guttering (one side of the house) | From £200 | Half a day |
| Full uPVC gutter replacement (semi-detached) | From £600 | 1 day |
| Downpipe replacement | From £140 | A few hours |
| Cast iron gutter repair (joint or short section) | From £150 | Half a day |
| Cast iron gutter replacement | From £85 per metre | 1–3 days |
| Scaffolding, where needed | From £400 | Up and down in a day each way |
Scaffolding is priced separately where it is needed. Many gutter jobs on two-storey houses can be done from ladders or a tower; your written quote says which access is being used and what it costs.
Gutters fill with moss washed off the roof, leaves and silt. Once the outlet blocks, water spills over the front edge or backs up behind the gutter and runs down the wall. On Leeds stone and brick terraces that shows up as green streaks, damp patches inside, or a soaked patch of ground below the overflow.
Most cleaning on a two-storey house is done from the ground with a gutter vacuum, or from ladders where that is safer and quicker. A proper clean includes the outlets and a check that the downpipes run freely, not just scooping out the gutter. Larger and taller houses, conservatories in the way and three-storey properties cost more because they take longer and need more access equipment.
Most uPVC gutter leaks come from the joints. Each joint (the union bracket) has rubber seals that harden and shrink over the years, and the gutter also expands and contracts as the temperature changes. A drip at a joint is usually fixed by cleaning the joint and fitting new seals or a new union. Sealant squeezed over the outside is not a lasting fix.
Sagging gutters are usually down to brackets: broken, spaced too far apart, or screwed into fascia timber that has gone soft. Manufacturers typically specify brackets about every metre, and the gutter needs a slight fall towards the outlet so water does not sit in it. If a bracket will not hold because the fascia behind it is rotten, the fascia is the real problem; see our fascias and soffits service.
When a length of gutter is brittle, cracked or a mismatch of old profiles that no longer seal together, replacing that run is often better value than repairing joint after joint. A run is usually one elevation of the house, front or back. New brackets go in at the right spacing and fall, and the run connects to the existing downpipe or to a new outlet.
On terraces the gutter often continues straight onto the neighbour’s house. In that case we join the new run to theirs with a suitable adaptor, because different makers’ profiles are not always compatible. If the neighbour’s side is in poor condition, a shared job can be the tidiest answer.
A full replacement covers all the gutters and downpipes on the house: old system off, new brackets, gutters, outlets, stop ends, angles and downpipes on. On a typical semi it is usually a one-day job. You can usually choose the profile, for example half-round, square or a deeper high-capacity gutter for larger roof areas, and a colour such as black, brown, white or anthracite.
If the fascias and soffits are also tired, it makes sense to do everything in one go, because the gutters have to come off to replace the boards anyway. That also shares any access cost.
Downpipes crack, get knocked loose at the clips, or block at the bends and at the shoe at the bottom. A blocked downpipe can often be cleared rather than replaced. When it does need replacing, the price covers the new pipe, clips, any offset bends and the connection to the gutter outlet and the drain or gully. Where a downpipe discharges into an underground drain, the drain connection itself is a separate drainage matter if it is broken.
Many older Leeds houses, especially Victorian and Edwardian terraces in areas like Headingley and Roundhay, still have cast iron gutters. Well maintained, cast iron lasts a very long time. The usual problems are joints that have lost their seal, rusted brackets, and sections that have cracked or rusted through because they have not been painted.
Repairs involve unbolting the joint, cleaning it back, resealing it with a suitable gutter sealant and re-bolting with new bolts, or replacing a damaged section with a matching new or reclaimed piece. Cast iron is heavy and brittle, so it takes longer to handle than uPVC and more access is usually needed. Old paint on cast iron may contain lead, so it should not be dry-sanded.
Replacing cast iron with new cast iron costs considerably more than uPVC. Cast-iron-effect uPVC or aluminium are cheaper alternatives, but on a listed building or in a conservation area you may be expected to keep cast iron. We tell you at the survey if this applies.
Your written quote sets out the options side by side, so you can see what each costs. See our guttering service for what we do and how we work, and our fascias and soffits service if the boards behind the gutter need attention too.
Rotten boards out, UPVC or timber in, and roof ventilation left clear instead of sealed up.
Learn More →New runs, repairs, realignment and clearing, so the water goes down the pipe and not down the wall.
Learn More →Storm damage and sudden leaks made safe with temporary covers, then put right properly afterwards.
Learn More →Industrial units, shops and managed property portfolios. RAMS supplied, work scheduled round the operation.
Learn More →Slipped and cracked tiles, failed flashing and leaks traced back to where they start rather than where they show.
Learn More →Strip, re-batten, breathable membrane and a covering chosen to suit the house. Scaffolded properly, left clean.
Learn More →Welsh slate, Yorkshire stone, clay and concrete tile — matched to what is already up there and coursed to suit.
Learn More →EPDM, GRP and torch-on felt on extensions, garages, dormers and bay tops, laid to a fall that sheds water.
Learn More →Free drone survey, written quotation, fully insured.