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Cost Guide

Gutter repair and replacement costs in Leeds

What gutter cleaning, joint and bracket repairs, new uPVC runs, downpipes and cast iron work typically cost in Leeds, what pushes the price up or down, and when to repair rather than replace.

Updated October 2026. These are starting prices, based on typical rates published by Leeds and northern roofers and national cost guides. Your price depends on access, the length and height of the gutters, their condition and the materials needed, so a job can cost more than the starting figure. After a free survey you get a fixed price in writing.

Gutter repair and replacement prices at a glance

JobStarting priceUsually takes
Gutter clean (terrace or semi)From £801–2 hours
Gutter repair (reseal a joint, refix or replace brackets)From £901–2 hours
Replacing one run of uPVC guttering (one side of the house)From £200Half a day
Full uPVC gutter replacement (semi-detached)From £6001 day
Downpipe replacementFrom £140A few hours
Cast iron gutter repair (joint or short section)From £150Half a day
Cast iron gutter replacementFrom £85 per metre1–3 days
Scaffolding, where neededFrom £400Up and down in a day each way

Scaffolding is priced separately where it is needed. Many gutter jobs on two-storey houses can be done from ladders or a tower; your written quote says which access is being used and what it costs.

Gutter cleaning

Gutters fill with moss washed off the roof, leaves and silt. Once the outlet blocks, water spills over the front edge or backs up behind the gutter and runs down the wall. On Leeds stone and brick terraces that shows up as green streaks, damp patches inside, or a soaked patch of ground below the overflow.

Most cleaning on a two-storey house is done from the ground with a gutter vacuum, or from ladders where that is safer and quicker. A proper clean includes the outlets and a check that the downpipes run freely, not just scooping out the gutter. Larger and taller houses, conservatories in the way and three-storey properties cost more because they take longer and need more access equipment.

Gutter repairs: joints, brackets and leaks

Most uPVC gutter leaks come from the joints. Each joint (the union bracket) has rubber seals that harden and shrink over the years, and the gutter also expands and contracts as the temperature changes. A drip at a joint is usually fixed by cleaning the joint and fitting new seals or a new union. Sealant squeezed over the outside is not a lasting fix.

Sagging gutters are usually down to brackets: broken, spaced too far apart, or screwed into fascia timber that has gone soft. Manufacturers typically specify brackets about every metre, and the gutter needs a slight fall towards the outlet so water does not sit in it. If a bracket will not hold because the fascia behind it is rotten, the fascia is the real problem; see our fascias and soffits service.

Replacing a run of uPVC guttering

When a length of gutter is brittle, cracked or a mismatch of old profiles that no longer seal together, replacing that run is often better value than repairing joint after joint. A run is usually one elevation of the house, front or back. New brackets go in at the right spacing and fall, and the run connects to the existing downpipe or to a new outlet.

On terraces the gutter often continues straight onto the neighbour’s house. In that case we join the new run to theirs with a suitable adaptor, because different makers’ profiles are not always compatible. If the neighbour’s side is in poor condition, a shared job can be the tidiest answer.

Full uPVC gutter replacement

A full replacement covers all the gutters and downpipes on the house: old system off, new brackets, gutters, outlets, stop ends, angles and downpipes on. On a typical semi it is usually a one-day job. You can usually choose the profile, for example half-round, square or a deeper high-capacity gutter for larger roof areas, and a colour such as black, brown, white or anthracite.

If the fascias and soffits are also tired, it makes sense to do everything in one go, because the gutters have to come off to replace the boards anyway. That also shares any access cost.

Downpipes

Downpipes crack, get knocked loose at the clips, or block at the bends and at the shoe at the bottom. A blocked downpipe can often be cleared rather than replaced. When it does need replacing, the price covers the new pipe, clips, any offset bends and the connection to the gutter outlet and the drain or gully. Where a downpipe discharges into an underground drain, the drain connection itself is a separate drainage matter if it is broken.

Cast iron guttering

Many older Leeds houses, especially Victorian and Edwardian terraces in areas like Headingley and Roundhay, still have cast iron gutters. Well maintained, cast iron lasts a very long time. The usual problems are joints that have lost their seal, rusted brackets, and sections that have cracked or rusted through because they have not been painted.

Repairs involve unbolting the joint, cleaning it back, resealing it with a suitable gutter sealant and re-bolting with new bolts, or replacing a damaged section with a matching new or reclaimed piece. Cast iron is heavy and brittle, so it takes longer to handle than uPVC and more access is usually needed. Old paint on cast iron may contain lead, so it should not be dry-sanded.

Replacing cast iron with new cast iron costs considerably more than uPVC. Cast-iron-effect uPVC or aluminium are cheaper alternatives, but on a listed building or in a conservation area you may be expected to keep cast iron. We tell you at the survey if this applies.

What changes the price

  • Height and access — a bungalow costs less than a three-storey terrace, and conservatories, extensions or steep ground underneath make access harder.
  • Length of guttering — a mid-terrace has far less gutter than a detached house with gutters on every side.
  • Material — uPVC is the cheapest, aluminium sits in the middle, and cast iron costs the most to supply and fit.
  • Condition behind the gutter — soft fascia timber means brackets will not hold, and the board needs repairing or replacing first.
  • Number of downpipes and fittings — corners, outlets and downpipes all add to the cost of a full replacement.
  • Combining work — doing gutters with fascias, soffits or roof repairs in one visit shares the access cost.

Clean, repair or replace?

  • Clean if water is overflowing but the gutters are sound, straight and not leaking at the joints.
  • Repair if the problem is one or two leaking joints, a broken bracket or a single dropped section.
  • Replace a run if one side is brittle, cracked or leaking at several joints.
  • Replace the whole system if most of it is old, discoloured and brittle, or you are replacing the fascias anyway.

Your written quote sets out the options side by side, so you can see what each costs. See our guttering service for what we do and how we work, and our fascias and soffits service if the boards behind the gutter need attention too.

Gutter cost questions

  • For most houses, once a year is enough, ideally after the leaves have fallen in late autumn. Houses near trees, or with mossy roofs, may need it twice a year. If water is spilling over the edge in heavy rain, the gutter or outlet is usually blocked.
  • Not always. Cleaning and small repairs on a two-storey house are usually done from the ground or from ladders. Replacing long runs, or working on taller houses, often needs a tower or scaffolding to be done safely. Where scaffolding is needed it starts from £400, and your quote states it separately.
  • Yes. We replace your section and join it to your neighbour’s gutter with a suitable adaptor. If their side is leaking where it meets yours, it is worth talking to them, because water from their side can still end up on your wall.
  • On most houses you can, and uPVC costs much less. Cast iron is worth keeping and repairing if it is generally sound, if you want to keep the original look, or if the house is listed or in a conservation area where like-for-like materials may be expected.
  • Usually a partly blocked outlet or downpipe, a gutter without enough fall, or a gutter too small for the area of roof feeding it. In heavy rain it fills faster than it drains. A survey shows which it is before you spend money on new guttering.
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